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Photo Title
Mini Kossel - Delta 3D Printer

Kossel is a parametric delta robot 3D printer.

Mini Kossel
3D Hubs Party Glasses

3D Hubs Party Glasses! Source:

Glasses, Party Glasses
Jet Engine

Put a pressure regulator on the air line or it will blow to bits!  You will need:  10 x 220 mm steel shaft  10 x 14 x 10 needle roller bearing (x 2)  10 x 22 x 6 bearing  10 x 30 x 9 bearing  10 x 24 x 9 thrust bearing (x 2)  14 x 20 x 96 Ali tube (you can print this but it might bend) (Note: Enjoy at your risk!) Instructions:  When making the air jets "pause the printer" and remove any support material. Make the air jets with the jets at the bottom. The perspex cover has a 10 degree fillet at the front ...

Jet Engine
Electric Window Opener

-The system should fit within the limits of the frame depth (about 50mm in this case).  -The moving arm is not allowed to move out of the frame at the room side. This is nescessary to let the window mosquito screen in place. So basically this rules out the use of a double armed system.  -Electronics should fit in the enclosure that also hold the motor and angular position potmeter.  -The system should be able to detach completely from the window with a few screws to allow frame cleaning and painting.  -The mechanical construction should preferably contain parts that...

Window, Window Opener, Windows
RoboKnob for the Ultimaker 2

Knob hole is modeled larger than necessary. If too loose insert paper or extra material into the hole.

Roboknob, Ultimaker 2
Prusa iteration 3

Files for Josef Prusa Workshops: To start grab the source folder for SCAD and DXF files: Copy configuration.scad.dist to configuration.scad and fill custom settings section. Use: .3mm Layer Height/2.2 Extrusion Width (Width over Thickness), for .66mm stroke width. (Printer is tested at this setting.)

Prusa, Prusa i3, prusai3
Ultimaker Dual Head

With additional holes for cabling. And additional screwfixtures, in case the pressfit is not good enough, or relaxes with time. See remix parents. One should be able to put m3 threads into the tiny holes. Source:

Ultimaker Dual, Ultimaker Dual Head
The Vornaments!

Ornament numbering (1-7) roughly correlates with difficulty of printing. Regardless, getting the first layer stuck to the build platform, and printing with a thick brim, are essential. Some of the ornaments have very aggressive overhangs, and having your cooling and print temperature dialed in is essential. "The parts are represented as a solid (ie - filled) because I was getting the best results by letting the slicer create the shell surface. You can print them "without a bottom" in Cura and get a print with a hole in it for hanging, though I found it easier+stronger_faster to print them...

Solidoodle 2 Anti-Backlash Assembly V2 (Aluminum Carrier)

Instructions The spring has a 0.825 O.D., 0.725 I.D, and 0.05 wire thickness. It's approximately 1.2 inches free length, and 0.300 compressed length. (Spring was selected as it was local.). Century Spring ( carries a similar spring that looks like it will work nicely: part no. S-799.  When printing the upper spring retainer, print with the hex side down, and use support material inside the hex. It might be possible to print without support material, but I haven't tried it yet.  Note: The two halves need to fit together and be able to slide vertically...

Solidoodle 2 Anti Backlas
Solidoodle 2: M4 Thumb Screw

Thumb screw cap is used to level the platform on the Solidoodle 2 from underneath without a tool. The cap fits tightly onto an M4 nut (7 mm wide). No extra materials needed. Source:

Solidoodle 2 Platform
Solidoodle Clip On 40mm Fan Guard

Having the issue of filament running into the fan when your Solidoodle extruder is backed into the rear left corner. This should take care of it without needing screws. First seen here:

Solidoodle Fan Guard
E3D Hotend Mount for Ultimaker

Replacement head for Ultimaker to allow the use of the E3D hotend which a llows jam free printing at elevated temperatures for PLA, ABS and PC. (ABS at >150mm/s and temps up to 265deg.) This also gives very strong parts with superb surface finish.  Instructions:  Print both parts top and bottom in ABS, no supports needed, and stick them together with acetone or superglue or print the whole thing at once with supports if you prefer.  If (like me) your printer can't do ABS with the V2 hotend, then make one in PLA, and it will last long enough to make one in ABS...

Ultimaker e3d Hotend
Ultimaker Extruder Fan Duct

Ultimaker Extruder Fan Duct for use with the V2 hotend "The V2 hot end bundle is fool proof when assembling. There is only one way to assemble it, no (more) small differences. It’s leak free, So no need to use teflon tape or ABS to make the extruder leak free. The new hot end bundle is free of plugs and retrofit. Which means all users can benefit from it as well."  Note: Since this print has steep angles, best results are from printing this with Ultimaker tilted (about 20-30 degrees). Also use nylon spacers between the aluminium and fan as PLA can...

Ultimaker v2 Fan Duct
Ultimaker Extruder Gear Upgrade

Replacement for the original wooden extruder gear with thicker teeth.  Features: Very good fitting to the stepper pinion. It has involute teeth, matching the distance of the axes and the numbers of teeth. You can use this wheel with only one washer between the bearing and the gear to get maximum tooth contact area. (However opening the extruder clamp can be a bit tricky if you assembled it to close...) Fastening of stepper screws possible The backlash is very small if the stepper motor is aligned properly (might increase retraction quality) ...

Ultimaker Extruder